Saigon. Paris of the East. The Pearl of the Orient. The setting of erotic French novels and thrilling Graham Greene mysteries. There was once a time when the city now known as Ho Chi Minh held a fascinating allure for travellers \u2013 a place of intrigue and exoticism, the perfect blend of colonial culture and Oriental charm.<\/p>\n
Post-war, Vietnam\u2019s meteoric progress saw the country\u2019s most populated metropolis advance at an incredible rate, with the city centre trading in its innumerable ancient shophouses for towering skyscrapers \u2013 for better or worse.<\/p>\n
The area known as District 1 is where most modern-day visitors now spend their time. It\u2019s the city\u2019s financial hub, its beating heart, a heady mishmash of gorgeous colonial structures, stark Soviet-era buildings and striking high-rises, all soundtracked by the bee-like swarm of the city\u2019s omnipresent motorcyclists.<\/p>\n
But beyond the business-centric borders, \u201cSaigon\u201d (as most residents prefer to call it) still holds a sense of allure. Take a short drive in either direction of the centre, and you\u2019ll find a city hemmed in by charming enclaves.<\/p>\n
Both District 2 up north and District 7 down south are touted as \u201cnew cities\u201d \u2013 former swamplands reclaimed for the many expats who have flooded the city. For international travellers who\u2019ve spent a few long days slogging around District 1, they make for ideal weekend escapes.<\/p>\n
Thao Dien’s Tao<\/strong><\/p>\n Linking the concrete jungle of District 1 with District 2\u2019s quiet lights, the Ho Chi Minh highway road crosses the snaking Saigon River via a pair of scenic bridges. These overpasses create a sense of escape, a double feeling of freedom from the city-centre mayhem.<\/p>\n Here in Thao Dien, D2\u2019s enchanting central hub, one swiftly finds a sense of calm. It\u2019s the architecture of the area that makes the difference, with tree-lined streets and wide-open spaces through which amiable types go about their business at ease.<\/p>\n Kick off your leisurely retreat by checking in to Villa Song (villasong.com), a former colonial mansion turned boutique hotel, with a more-than-enviable location on the same twisting river you crossed to get here.<\/p>\n Villa Song\u2019s rooms are a time warp to a different era, spacious abodes heavy on the dark-wood furnishings, with vintage four-poster beds, folding screens and armchairs that call back to the city once known as Saigon. The pool is small but stunning, sitting in the shadow of the gorgeous mansion, while the caf\u00e9 on the river offers the rare treat of breakfast overlooking a striking city panorama.<\/p>\n Strolling through Thao Dien\u2019s central streets makes up a large part of the district\u2019s charm. The main artery is Thao Dien Street, a wide-set road with plenty of character \u2013 aesthetically pleasing with small town-like shopfronts of caf\u00e9s, pubs, butchers and specialist grocery stores.<\/p>\n An old standby here is Mekong Merchant (mekongmerchant.com), a charming all-day caf\u00e9 and restaurant decked out in Indochinese style. Its fusion menu perfectly melds the delicate flavours of Vietnam with contemporary Western touches, while the wine cellar is one of the best in the city.<\/p>\n Once you\u2019ve taken in Thao Dien\u2019s centre, it\u2019s time to start branching out. Exploring the district\u2019s outreaches isn\u2019t always easy, but for those so inclined, zipping your way around on a moped allows you to discover such hidden gems as Boathouse (facebook.com\/boathousevietnam). This stunning bar-caf\u00e9 is set alfresco, letting you soak in the city\u2019s endlessly balmy weather, while once again treated to stunning river views.<\/p>\n White parasols shade its rustic wooden tables, and the focus here is on quality craft beers, showcasing a curated selection of Vietnam\u2019s thriving scene, including Pasteur Street\u2019s ever-popular Jasmine Street IPA. Food is equally impressive in its laid-back ambition, featuring healthy takes on such comfort food as Buffalo cauliflower and nachos packed with jackfruit.<\/p>\n As the sun sets in the distance and cocktails are drained, thoughts naturally turn to dinner. D2\u2019s focus is less on quantity than quality, with an impressive proportion of some of the city\u2019s most high-end restaurants.<\/p>\n La Villa (lavilla-restaurant.com.vn) is a long-time favourite, showcasing classic French cuisine prepared to a very high standard. Decorated like an elaborate countryside chateau, complete with old-world furnishings and its own pool, chef Thierry Mounon serves a range of set menus that pay tribute to the pared-down world of classic French gastronomy: foie gras, roast pigeon, duck leg confit, as well as one of the most excessive cheese trolleys you\u2019ll ever see.<\/p>\n Finally, there\u2019s time for a quick nightcap before bed. D2\u2019s nightlife might not rival the city centre, but this predominantly expat enclave is starting to hold its own. Saigon Outcast (saigonoutcast.com) is a popular choice among Thao Dien\u2019s younger crowds, an alt-event venue that regularly features food and drink festivals, live music showcases as well as weekend parties, with an impressive layout across its container-like design.<\/p>\n A newer, more refined choice is 86 Proof (facebook.com\/get86proof), a recently opened whisky bar inspired by Japan\u2019s tucked-away speakeasies. You\u2019ll find a fantastic single-malt selection here, as well as some of the most balanced cocktails in all of Ho Chi Minh City.<\/p>\n Seventh Heaven<\/strong><\/p>\n The long road out to District 7 showcases Ho Chi Minh City\u2019s vast spread arguably better than anywhere else. Set a good 30 minutes from the centre, the endless trucks, cars and bikes are nearly all making their way towards the port and the ocean, for deliveries set far beyond Vietnam\u2019s borders.<\/p>\n But if only they stopped and parked for a moment, they\u2019d discover an area far removed from the rest of the city. Known colloquially as \u201cSaigon South\u201d, it\u2019s a place inspired by suburban America, with quaint family houses, leafy green parks and SUVs rumbling down roads flanked by extra-wide sidewalks.<\/p>\n The fact that D7\u2019s many families often choose the area because they\u2019d prefer to ignore the rest of the city, means the district isn\u2019t as obvious a weekend escape as D2. But the area\u2019s charms are certainly there, often spread out and hidden away within its widespread borders.<\/p>\n Start your suburban-like retreat at the TajmaSago Castle (tajmasago.com). The only five-star resort in the area, it\u2019s a grand, sweeping hotel modelled after the Maharaja palaces of India. Equipped with a spa, library and infinity pool, as well as a fine-dining French restaurant and a British steakhouse, the resort is almost an escape unto itself.<\/p>\n Rooms are tastefully designed, featuring white as the central colour scheme throughout, contrasted by the latest in modern technologies to keep you entertained. It\u2019s a cosy escape, and the kind of place that would cost triple the price in most other global cities \u2013 but resist the urge to spend your entire weekend here and journey out into D7\u2019s vast expanse.<\/p>\n The area\u2019s more affordable rents (compared to the centre), coupled with eager young entrepreneurs, have resulted in some of the most distinctive eateries in the city \u2013 case in point, Jane\u2019s Bistro (janesbistro.com), a fine-dining, farm-to-table restaurant set up by an expat husband-and-wife team. Serving up healthy American and Italian dishes, the homestyle ambience mirrors the quality of the ever-changing menu, artfully plated and paired with classic cocktails.<\/p>\n As a family-friendly town of sorts, lazy afternoons in D7 are often spent walking along its many promenades. One of the nicest faces onto manmade Crescent Lake, a serene haven that connects to the flashy Starlight Bridge. After a healthy stroll, stop in at Boomerang (boomerangsaigon.com), an Australian-owned spot that faces the lake and offers an impressive menu of gastropub-inspired dishes and drinks.<\/p>\n Refresh yourself with a rest or a massage back in your room, before preparing for a dinner feast. The El Gaucho (vn.elgaucho.asia) steakhouses are generally regarded as the best in Vietnam, if not Southeast Asia, and the group\u2019s second Ho Chi Minh branch is conveniently set in D7. Inspired by the family-owned meat eateries of Buenos Aires\u2019 La Boca district, the simple brickwork and wooden tables are offset by a contemporary cocktail and cigar bar.<\/p>\n Indulge in tartare and carpaccio to start, alongside a perfectly made Manhattan cocktail, before attempting one of their New York cuts of meat, sourced directly from Australia and the US. Pair it with an impressive red wine from their cellar \u2013 the restaurant being one of the few to source high-end bottles from the Burgundy, Piedmont and Napa Valley regions.<\/p>\n After all that charm, bring things down to earth with one last drink at Speakeasy (facebook.com\/speakeasyHCMC). The name refers more to the vibe than any kind of retro style, but compared to the many rowdy neighbourhood pubs in the area, it\u2019s a fairly quiet affair. Old Charlie Chaplin movies are projected on the walls, restrained odes to Americana are displayed throughout and the fine selection of whisky makes for an ideal nightcap, rubbing shoulders with the district\u2019s friendly denizens.<\/p>\n Top Trending Hotspots<\/strong><\/p>\n District 1 is forever evolving, a mishmash of old and new, classic and contemporary. Alongside decades-old restaurants and bars are a constantly updated breed. Here are some of the coolest new places in recent times:<\/p>\n Vietnam House<\/strong><\/p>\n Australian celebrity chef Luke Nguyen has returned to his roots, setting up shop in one of D1\u2019s most central spaces. Vietnam House is about traditions, and how the rules can sometimes be bent, with the colonial high-end setting contrasting perfectly with the contemporary cuisine. vietnamhousesaigon.com<\/p>\n Anan<\/strong><\/p>\n Another Viet chef who\u2019s returned home is Peter Cuong Franklin, who made his name in Hong Kong. His new restaurant Anan showcases traditional Vietnamese dishes given Franklin\u2019s signature modern spin, in a stunning multistorey location overlooking an outdoor market. anansaigon.com<\/p>\n Quince<\/strong><\/p>\n The Saigon sister location of the famed Bangkok restaurant, Quince is one of the most exciting new ventures in the city, sourcing fine ingredients from around the world for a simple but stunning menu of modern classics. It\u2019s fresh, funky and absolutely fascinating. quincesaigon.com<\/p>\n Corked Tales<\/strong><\/p>\n Cocktails are catching on in Ho Chi Minh City, and this bar hidden in an unassuming building serves up some of the most imaginative, utilising techniques such as barrel-aged carbon dioxide and peat smoke. corkedtales.vn<\/p>\n Biker Shield<\/strong><\/p>\n Both caf\u00e9 and motorbike cultures are massive in D1, and Biker Shield blends the two. The motorcycle-themed dining and drinking establishment is all hipster cool, with old bike parts on the walls, craft beers on tap, and classic and contemporary tunes on the stereo. bikershield.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Saigon. Paris of the East. The Pearl of the Orient. The setting of erotic French novels and thrilling Graham Greene mysteries. 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